Gauging device for setting snap fasteners



April 1944. J. P. TRECIOKAS ETAL 2,345,640

GAUGING DEVICE FOR SETTING SNAP FASTENERS Filed Sept. 12, 1941 4Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR S Java& 1. Jrenakas ZQdward A. Mac ('aul ORNEApril B 1944. J. P, TRECIOKAS ET AL 2,345,640

GAUGING DEVICE FOR SETTING SNAP FASTENERS Filed Sept. 12, 1941 4SheetsSheet 2 INVENTORS Jaco5 P. Trpczakas A dM/ard IY. Maz C'oul April4,- 1944.

J. P. TRECIOKAS ET AL 2,345,640 GAUGING DEVICE FOR SETTING SNAPFASTENERS Filed Sept. 12, 1941 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 aco rec/o as EgQvard/Y.Mac C'oul ATTOR EY April 1944. J. P. TRECIVOKAS EIAL 2,345,640

GAUGING DEVICE FOR SETTING SNAP FASTENERS Filed Sept. 12, 1941 4Sheets-Sheet 4 INVENTOR 8 Java 6 P. Train/as bdward ILMac (oul ORNEY.

Patented Apr. 4, 1944 GAUGING DEVICE FOR SETTING SNAP FASTENERS Jacob P.Treciokas, Oakville, Conn., and Edward H. MacCoul, Oak Park, Ill.,assignor to Scovill Manufacturing Company,

Waterbury,

Conn, a corporation of Connecticut Application September 12, 1941,Serial No. 410,532

6 Claims.

The present invention relates to caus g vices for assisting in settingsnap fastener elements and aims to provide certain improvements therein.More particularly it relates to the combination with a machine forattaching snap fastener elements, of gauging devices for assistingoperators in definitely positioning the points at which such snapfastener elements are to be attached to a part of a garment with respectto primary fastener means, such as a stringer of slide fastener elementsor a series of buttons, carried by the garment.

In various types of wearing apparel as now manufactured, slide fastenersare employed as the primary fastening means for securing a closure forthe garment. In addition to these primary closure means, thecomplemental parts of the garment also frequently have thereon,secondary closure means. This is particularly so with the upper frontportions of mens trousers,

where, in addition to the slide fasteners on the fiy, snap fasteners,because of their neat appearance and ease of use, have come to supplantthe buttons usually employed as the secondary.

closure means.

The application of these snap fasteners to trouser fronts, however, haspresented manufacturin difficulties, since said fasteners must bequickly and accurately applied to the garment parts, and in many casespreferably before the garments are completed, in order that the backs ofthe fastener elements should not extend through and be visible at thefront of the garment.

teners, so that the closure provided by one set of fasteners will notcause wrinkling in the garment when the second set is closed.

Accordingly, the primary object of our invention is to provide, incombination with a snap fastener setting machine, gauging means forassisting an operator in definitely positioning the points on thegarment parts at which the snap fastener elements are to be attached.

gauging means are made adjustable, so that the points at which the snapfastener elements are to be attached to the garment parts may be variedwithin certain limits.

Said snap fastener elements must also be oriented in definite relationto the slide fas- These H gauging means may be devised for cooperationThe invention will be better understood from the detailed descriptionwhich follows when considered in connection with the accompanyingdrawings showing certain pref-erred embodiments of our constructions,and wherein:

Figures 1 and 2 show a front elevation and a side elevation,respectively, of a right hand machine with gauging devices for settingthe stud and post elements of snap fasteners on the underlying flap ofthe fiy front of trousers.

Figs. 3 and 4 show a front elevation and a side elevation, respectively,of a left hand machine with somewhat modified forms of gauging devicesfor setting the cap and socket elements of snap fasteners on theoverlying flap of the fly front of trousers and showing additionally asupplementary gauging table.

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the gauging means of Figs. 1 and 2showing the relation of the work to the gauging devices in the operationof setting the stud and post elements of a first snap fastener on theouter face of the underlying end of a regular or extended type Waistbandof trousers.

Fig. '6 is a view similar to Fig. 5 showing the relation of the work tothe gauging devices in the operation of setting the stud and postelements of a second snap fastener on the outer face of the underlyingflap of a fly closure of a regular waistband of trousers.

Fig. 7 is a View similar to Fig. 6 showing the relation of the worktothe gauging devices in the operation of setting the stud and postelements of a second snap fastener on the outer face of the underlyingnon-extended end of an extended waistband for trousers and wherein theoverlying end of the waistband extends beyond the fly closure and thefirst stud having been applied as in Fig. 5.

Fig. 8 is a perspective view of the gauging means of Figs. 3 and 4showing the relation of the work in the operation of setting the cap andsocket elements of a first snap fastener on the underside of theoverlying end of a regular waistband for trousers prior to the slidefastener carrying portion of the fly being folded back and sewed inplace.

Fig. -9 is a view similar to Fig. 8 showing the relation of the work inthe operation of setting the cap and socket elements of a second snapfastener on the underside of the overlying flap of a fly closure of aregular waistband for trousers prior to the slide fastener carryingportion of the fly being folded back and sewed in place.

Fig. 10 is a perspective "view of the supplemental gauging means ofFigs. 3 and 4 showing the relation thereof to the work in the operationof setting the cap and socket elements of a first snap fastener on theunderside of an extended waistband for trousers prior to applyin saidwaistband to the trousers.

Fig. 11 is a perspective view of the supplemental gauging means of Figs.3 and 4 showing the relation thereof to the work in the operation ofsetting th cap and socket elements of a second snap fastener on theunderside of an extended waistband for trousers prior to applying saidwaistband to the trousers.

Fig. 12 is a perspective view of a fly front of trousers having aregular waistband with complemental snap fasteners attached thereto.

The gauging devices of the present invention are applicable to any typeof fastener setting machine and by way of illustration we have shown ourgauging devices in the accompanying drawings as applied to a fastenersetting machine of the general type disclosed in the patent to Warner,No. 1,521,141. This fastener setting machine, certain parts of which areshown in dot and dash lines in Figs. 1 to 4, comprises essentially asupport or framework 20 having mounted thereon a plunger block 2| withinwhich is a reciprocable plunger die 22 for cooperation with ananvil 23.Flanking the anvil 23 is a pair of clamping jaws 24 for holding one of apair of cooperating fastener elements preparatory to attaching the sameto a piece of fabric or to a part of a garment. In proximity to theplunger die is a recessed bracket 25 adapted to hold the other of thepair of fastener elements preparatory to applying it together with itscooperating fastener element to the piece of fabric or the part of agarment. In supplying cooperating fastener elements to the anvil 23 andto the recessed bracket 25, suitable raceways' 25 and 21 are providedwhich are adapted to receive the fastener elements from feed hoppers(not shown) in a well known manner. In the operation of such fastenerattaching machine it will be understood that the cooperating fastenerelements are fed down the raceways 26 and 21 respectively to the bracket25 and to the anvil 23, respectively, in timed relation and are adaptedto be attached to the fabric or garment when the plunger die 22 iscaused to descend toward the anvil. The point on the machine at whichthe fastener elements are attached to the fabric and which is coincidentwith the axis of the plunger die is known as the setting station.

Referring to Figs. 1, 2, 5, 6, 7 and 12 of the drawings wherein there isshown the application of gauging means for setting the stud and postelements of snap fasteners such as 28 and 29 onto the underlying flap ofthe-fly front 30 of a pair of regular (Figs. and 6) trousers or ofextended band (Figs. 5 and '7) type trousers wherein the flap is alreadyprovided'with primary fastening means such as cooperating stringers ofslide fasten'er'eleme'nts 3| and 32, the gauging means are mounted onthe machine upon a finger supporting bracket 33 and upon a channelmember supporting bracket 34. In the extended band type, the overlappingend of the waist band extends beyond the fly closure.

The bracket 33 which is of L-shape has its shorter arm attached to oneside of the plunger block 2! by securing means 35. The longer arm of theL-shaped bracket has at its free end a reduced cylindrical extension 36upon which a pair of finger guide members 31 and 38 are axiallyadjustably mounted by set screws 31a and 38a. The lower end of thefinger 37 is formed with a socket 21b adapted to receive the post of asnap fastener which has already been attached to the fabric or to thegarment as will be hereinafter explained. The lower end of the finger 38is formed with a straight edge 39 for a purpose which will be likewisepresently explained.

The channel member supporting bracket 3 has one of its arms 34a disposedin a plane perpendicular to the axis of the setting station and isadjustably mounted for movement in said plane by having its other arm 3%formed with a channel 66 which slidably engages a rib ti on an anchoringbar 42 supported by the machine proper. Th rib 4| is formed with aplurality of spaced tapped openings 43 (Fig. 1) for receiving a clampingscrew 44 which extends through a slot in the short arm 34 of the bracket34. The arm 34a is formed with three slots 45, 46 and 41, the slots 45and 46 being preferably disposed parallel to each other and at a rightangle to the slot 41. Supported on the under face of the bracket arm 34aare a pair of channeled guide members 48 and 49 and a fastener indexmember 5% The channeled guides 43 and 49 on their under surface are eachformed with a channel groove 48a and 49a, respectively, of a size toreceive a stringer of slide fastener elements, as shown in Figs. 5 and6, in a manner to be presently explained. Each of said channeled guides48 and 49 is formed on its upper face with a guide rib (not shown) whichslidably engages within one of the slots Q5 and 46 and extendingupwardly from said rib is a projecting screwthreadedshank adapted toreceive a clamping nut 53!.

From the construction and mounting of the channeled guides 48 and 49 itwill be apparent that they are adapted for adjustment relatively to eachother, and in view of the adjustability of the bracket 36 along the rib4i it will be appreciated that the channeled guides are adjustable in aplaneperpendicular to the axis of the setting station toward and awayfrom said axis as desired. The fastener index member 50 is alsoadjustably mounted on the under face of the bracket arm 34a within theslot 4'7 in a manner similar to the mounting of the channeled guides 38and 49. At its free end the fastener index member 50 is formed with anopening or recess 52 adapted to engage the stud of an attached snapfastener, as will be presently explained.

In Figs. 3, 4 and 8 and 9' we have shown guiding. devices for assistingin setting the cap and socket elements of the snap fastener members 53and 54 (Fig. 12) upon the opened-up overlying flap of the fly front ofmens regular trousers. The basic construction of the fastener attachingmachine for attaching the cap and socket elementsis substantially thesame as that above described for attaching the stud and post, and pri-,marily differs therefrom in that the raceways are on a single pedestalor base, although they are herein shown as separate units.

The gauging means for setting the cap and socket elements aresubstantially counterparts of although not identical with the gaugingmeans for setting the stud and post elements 'hereinbefore described andconsist of a finger-supporting bracket and a channeled member supportingbracket 56. The bracket 55 is a mirror image counterpart of the bracket33 above described and carries on a cylindrical extension 5! a pair ofdepending guide fingers 53 and '59, each of which is adjustable axiallyon the extension 51 and at its lower free end is formed with a stud orpin adapted to engage within the socket of an attached snap fastenersocket member. The lower end of the finger guide 58 is somewhat offsetWith respect to the supporting bracket so as to properly locate thepoint to which the firstset cap and socket unit is to be brought so thatthe point on the work for receiving the second cap and socket unit willbe brought into proper relation with respect to the plunger 22.

The channeled member supporting bracket 55 is a counterpart in mostrespects to the channeled member supporting bracket 35 above describedand has channel guides "6i and 62 which are adjustable in a planeperpendicular to the axis of the setting station. Said bracket 56primarily difiers from bracket 34 in that it has no member correspondingto the fastener index member 59.

For applying the cap and socket elements to the overlapping end of anextended waistband there is used supplementary gauge means such as shownin Figs. 10 and 11. In applying the cap and socket members to saidoverlapping end of an extended waistband supplemental gauging devicesare necessary since in this case the cap and socket elements are appliedprior to the extended end being secured to the trousers and, therefore,there is not present the string of fasteners to constitute an initialguide means. These supplementary gauging devices are incorporated in thesame machine upon which the aforementioned gauging devices '58 to 62 arecarried by providing a table 64 supported by a bracket which ispivotally mounted on the machine as shown at 66 and is adapted to beselectively held in either operative or inoperative position as desired.In inoperative position the bracket is swung down about its pivot intothe dot and dash position shown in Fig. 4. In operative position, it isswung upwardly about said pivot over an enlarged flat-headed bolt 61 thehead of which, when in vertical position, permits a slot 68 in thebracket 65 to pass over said head. By turning the head of the bolt 6?through an angle of after the slot 58 in the bracket has passed oversaid bolt, the table will be held in operative position. The table hasformed in its top two slots 69 and 10 disposed at a right angle to eachother, and mounted for adjustment in said slots are, respectively, aguide bar "H and a stop block 12. The means for mounting and adjustingthese guide member means may be similar to those described for adjustingthe channel guides 48 and 69 in the brackets 34.

Applying the stud and post elements In the use of the gauging devicesshown in Figs. 1, 2, 5 and 6 for applying stud and post elements to thefly fronts 30 of trousers which already have primary fastening meansthereon, such as complemental stringers of slide fastener elements 3|and 32, let it be assumed that the stud fastener member is to be appliedto the underlying flap of a regular waistband. In such waistband it iscustomary for the snap fastener members to be located, one laterallyadjacent the stringer. of slide fastener teeth and the other inalignment with such stringer of teeth. Of course, the exact locations atwhich these snap fastener members are to be applied may be varied withincertain limits, hence the adjustability of the guiding means aspreviously explained. The guiding means having been set, the firstoperation in applying a stud or post to a regular waistband is asfollows:

Prior to finishing and applying the waistband lining, the garment isbrought to the machine and the previously attached stringer of slidefastener teeth such as 3| on the inner element of the fly front isfitted up into the channel 48a in channel guide 48 carried by th bracket34 (Fig. 5). The operator then slides the garment along to the pointwhere the seam 13 of the garment (the point .at which the slide fastenerelement ends) abuts the adjacent end of such channel guide. The machineis then operated to apply and set the first stud and post 23 in theusual manner by tripping the clutch to cause the setting die 22 todescend.

In the setting of the second stud and post to a regular waistband thestringer of slide fastener teeth 31 is positioned (Fig. '6) within thechannel 49a of the channel guide 49 and the previously attached stud andpost 28 is brought into registry with the socket 37b in the lower end ofguide finger 31. With the garment thus oriented the second stud, andpost 29 is applied andset by operating the machine in the conventionalmanner.

Where it is desired to set the stud and post on the underlying flap oftrousers having an ex tended type of waistband construction theprocedure for setting and the position of the first stud and post 28 isthe same as that explained with respect to setting the first stud andpost 28 on the standard or regular type of waistband. To set the secondstud and post 29a, the already applied stud 28 is registered in thesocket 52 of the fastener index member 50 (Fig, '7) carried by thebracket '35, and with the connection between the stud 28 and the socket52 as a pivot the garment is swung around into a position where the seamI3 is brought into registry with the straight edge 39 at the lower endof guide finger 38. The second stud 29a may then be set by operating themachine in the usual manner.

Applying the socket and cap members In setting the complementary socketand cap members 53 and 54 on the overlying flap of the fly front of aregular type of waistband, the gauges 6i, $2 and 58 illustrated in Figs.3, 4, 8 and 9 are employed. In this connection it may be stated that theapplication of the first and second cap and socket elements is analogousto the application of the first and second stud and post elements, andthe relation of the garment to. the gauging devices for setting thefirst and second cap and socket elements, respectively, are shown inFigs. 8 and 9. In this connection it should be noted that the cap andsocket elements are applied to the upper face of an extended portion ofthe fly closure prior to said extended portion being folded back alonga, seam 62a and stitched in place to present the socket element on theunderside of the overlying flap of the fly closure of a regularwaistband for trousers. ,By so securing said fasteners in place, thecapelements will be covered by the folding back operation andwilltherefore be concealed from the front of'the fly closure. In Fig. 9the dotted lines indicate the position of the material after thisfolding operation, and the arrow indicates the direction of the folding.

In the case where the cap and socket elements are to be attached to anextended waistband the setting machine is provided with the supplementalgauging means H, 12 and 59 illustrated in Figs. 3, 4, 10 and 11. In theapplication of the cap and socket elements to an extended waistband itis preferable that said fastener elements be attached to the waistbandwhile it is detached from the garment proper and before the band iscompletely finished; that is, the fastener elements are set in place onthe back part of the waistband and thereafter the front part of thewaistband is stitched thereto to conceal the fasteners. The completedWaistband may then be attached to the garment front. In-applying the capand socket elements to the extended waistband the table 64 is broughtinto operative position as hereinbefore explained and as illustrated inFigs. 3, 4, 10 and 11. To attach the first cap and socket 54a to theextended waistband the edge of the waistband is aligned along the inneredge of the gauge bar H, due allowance having been made for thefold-over seam by which the waistband is sewed to the top of the flyportion proper, the pointed end of the band is brought into abuttingrelation with the previously set adjustable stop block 12 and themachine is then operated to apply said fastener elements. Therelationship of the parts for accomplishing this is shown in Fig. 10.

To set the second cap and socket 53a upon the waistband which on thefinished garment will complement in location the position of the cap andsocket element 28 in Fig. 7, the band is moved along the guide bar H tobring the applied socket 54a into registry with the tip 60 of the guidefinger 59, and while held in this position the machine is operated toapply said second socket member. The relationship of the waistband tothe gauging means for applying this cap and socket member is shown inFig. 11. It will be understood that the points at which the socketmembers-54a and 530. are set, are spaced apart a distance to correspondwith that between the studs 28 and 29a (Fig. 7) on the underlyingnonextended end of an extended type of waistband, and that the extendedend of the waistband will be sewed onto the fiy portion proper to bringthe socket member 53a into alignment with the teeth on the slidefastener stringers 32 (Fig. 12) corresponding to the position of thesocket member 53 in said Fig. 12.

From the foregoing detailed description it will be apparent that we haveprovided gauging devices for assisting an operator in locating thepoints on the front or fly portions of trousers whereat snap fastenerelements are to be applied which supplement the primary slide fastenermeans of the garment, and that the gauging devices shown and describedare adjustable so that the specific locations and distances between theapplied snap fasteners may be varied as desired. It will also beappreciated that while we have shown and described certain preferredembodiments of our invention, we do not wish to be limited to thespecific means disclosed since these may be varied within the range ofmechanical and engineering skill without departing from the spirit ofthe invention as comprehended by the appended claims.-

What we claim is:

1. A gauging means for a snap fastener setting machine for locating apoint on a garment relative to a slide fastener carried thereby, atwhich pointa snap fastener element is to be applied, said gauging meanscomprising a part carried by the machine having an inverted channeltherein along which the teeth of the slide fastener can be guided, oneend of said part being provided with an abutment for cooperation with apro jection on the garment.

2. A gauging means for a snap fastener setting machine for locating aplurality of points on a garment relative to a slide fastener carriedthereby; at which points snap fastener elements are to be applied, saidgauging means comprising a part carried by the machine having aninverted channel therein along which the teeth of the slide fastener canbe guided, one end of said part being provided with an abutment forcooperation with a projection on the garment, and a member carried bythe machine adapted for cooperative engagement with a snap fastenerelement applied to the garment and adjustable for definitely orientingwith respect to an applied snap fastener element, the point whereat asecond snap fastener element is to be applied.

3. A gauging means according to claim 1 wherein the part having thechannel therein is adjustable relatively to the setting station of themachine in a plane perpendicular to the axis of the setting station.

4. A gauging means according to claim 2 wherein said channeled part andthe member for engagement with an attached snap fastener element areadjustable relatively to the setting station of the machine in a planeperpendicular to the axis of the setting station.

5. A gauging means according to claim 2 wherein said channeled part andthe member for engagement with an attached snap fastener element arecarried by a common supporting part and wherein said gauge members areindependently adjustable on said supporting part relatively to thesetting station in a plane perpendicular to the axis of the settingstation. 7

6. A gauging means for a snap fastener setting machine comprising asupporting bracket attached to the machine frame overlying the work,said bracket carrying a part having a downwardly directed channeltherein along which the teeth of a slide fastener can be guided, saidpart being adjustable in a plane perpendicular to the axis of thesetting of the machine.

- JACOB P. TRECIOKAS. EDWARD H. MACCOUL.

